Very few plants can live in the same pot forever. Eventually, they must either go in the ground or into a bigger pot. Since my garden is on a concrete balcony, a bigger pot it is.
As a container gardener, I feel like I’m constantly moving a plant from one pot into another. Although every plant has different needs, I’ve re-potted enough over the years to have learned some valuable dos and don’ts.
Illustrated by the recent transfer of my olive tree, here are some basic principles to guide you, no matter what you’re re-potting.
Assess to avoid stress
Just like for humans, being uprooted is very stressful for plants. Your goal is to minimize this stress as much as possible.
Before you start the process, assess whether your plant really needs a new pot. Distressed, overflowing roots and foliage are obvious signs, but here are some more to look out for if you’re unsure:
- Gently tip the pot to observe the drainage holes; a large tangle of roots desperately crawling out the bottom means it’s time to upsize.
- Consider the growth rate of the plant and how long it’s been in the pot. Slow-growing cacti and succulents will happily live in the same little vessel for years, while vigorous plants like mint and tomatoes will outgrow theirs in a season.
- Root depth varies by plant but in general, plant height should roughly mirror container depth. You’ll be able to visually tell when this balance is off (see below: my tall spindly olive tree in a short, squat container).
Timing matters
Seasonally speaking, research the best time of year to re-pot the plant in question. In Oakland, with its mild, frost-free winters, fall is a great time to plant and re-pot perennials, shrubs, and trees. In colder climates, you might have to wait until spring after the last frost. For fast-growing annuals, you may be potting them up every month or so until they reach the season’s peak.
If your schedule allows, consider the weather and time of day. Avoid re-potting in the middle of a hot afternoon or just before a frigid night. Ideal moments are early morning or early evening during mild weather.
Flowering and fruiting require energy of the plant, and so does the shock of relocation. When it undergoes re-potting, it turns its focus towards root development and may drop all those lovely blooms or fruits to preserve energy. For perennials and trees, wait until they’re done for the season and about to go dormant or just as they’re waking up in the springtime. For annuals, consider pinching off buds and blooms after potting up.
Preparing and sourcing materials
Having all your tools and materials ready to go means a quicker, smoother process, further reducing stress on the plant.
Prepare your plant’s preferred planting medium. Olives love good drainage and don’t need a lot of nutrients, so I used a roughly 60/40 mixture of cactus and regular potting soil. For plants that prefer richer soils, mix in compost or an appropriate slow-release fertilizer. A little research pays off if you’re unsure. Make sure you have enough on hand to fill the new container.
Ideally, the new pot should be moderately larger than the original so the roots have room to grow, but not so large that the medium will become waterlogged. It can be expensive and challenging to source larger pots; visit my post on cheap pots for ideas. My olive’s new planter was a Craigslist find, and though it cost much less than it would from a store, it was still an investment.
If the new pot is dirty or its previous inhabitant suffered from any fungal diseases, clean out debris and sanitize with hot soapy water and/or rubbing alcohol spray. If desired, cover the drainage hole with a shard or two of broken terracotta (Monty Don always does this, but I’ve often forgotten to with no bad consequences).
You might want a tool for loosening the plant from its original pot, especially if it’s in terracotta or cement. I use a hand trowel for medium-sized plants, a small saw for larger trees and shrubs, and a butter knife for little guys.
Go for it, without fear!
The timing is right. You have gathered your supplies. The moment has come to re-pot! But perhaps you feel a nervousness creeping in… like one small slip up during this delicate operation could end your plant’s life for good.
Fear not! Plants are resilient. While the re-potting experience might seem traumatic, they will recover and come back stronger than before! Like all of us, they need to be challenged in order to grow.
So, without further ado:
Step 4: Water thoroughly. Make sure it pours out the drainage holes. This is not just to slake the plant’s thirst, but to ensure good contact between the roots and their fresh soil.
You did it! Sweep up the mess you made, stand back, and admire your handiwork. Doesn’t your plant look happier already?
Knowing when to let go
At a certain point, most plants will reach a size where we can’t fit or afford a big enough container to keep them happy. Some make their yearning to go in the ground quite clear no matter what size pot they’re in.
I recently decided it was time to say goodbye to my rose, Duchesse de Brabant. She tolerated container life for nearly three years, but despite re-potting, she had a rough summer. I gifted her to a grateful neighbor with a sunny garden. Although I’ll miss her, I know she’ll be happier there, and I can fill her old pot with something more appealing to my local pollinators.
If a beloved plant has reached the end of its container chapter, take heart – one of your other plants has surely been waiting for its pot!
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